On what today appears to be a vacant and inhospitable land, in the district of San Martín de Porres, stands the Huaca Garagay, whose walls hold more than 3,500 years of history. This place could be classified as the most important pre-Hispanic temple in Peru. According to archaeologist Hector Walde, head of the excavation team of the Municipality of Lima, this archaeological center has the same importance as the Huaca de El Brujo in Trujillo and Chavín de Huantar in Ancash.
Where is Huaca Garagay located?
The Huaca Garagay is located on the banks of the Rímac River, in what was previously the Hacienda de Garagay Alto, in the district of San Martín, within the province, department and region of Lima. It is a legacy of the Chavín culture, in fact the most important in the area and the largest in the Rímac valley, although some think that it would have had an earlier beginning around 1,400 BC.
What function did the Huaca Garagay have?
Garagay would have been an early Ceremonial Center, in which a group of structures can be recognized surrounding a sunken patio. These are constructions that usually have the presence of U-shaped or horseshoe-shaped floors or bases. These constructions are pyramidal structures (specifically three), where the largest one is located in the center.
Regarding the central patio or plaza, which is surrounded by these pyramids, it occupies a space of approximately 9 hectares, and some researchers think that it would have had the purpose of being a cultivable area, which would blend with the buildings that surround it and whose purposes were more religious and residential. Others rather follow the premise that this sunken plaza would have served more of a ceremonial purpose in relation to some type of observation or worship of the stars.
Above the main pyramid of this construction, it has an access staircase that begins in the patio or plaza and ends at the very top of the truncated pyramidal construction, where a smaller quadrangular-shaped enclosure of 576 m2 is located, which is considered the most sacred of the building since it was the place where the murals and friezes of the deities of the Culture that created the Huaca were located, in addition to the offerings intended for them. This temple, which crowns the pyramid, was made of stone, cut, but unpolished and of irregular shape, united thanks to mud mortar and plastered with clay.
On an ornamental level, you can still find in this huaca the presence of paintings of the clearest Chavín style (friezes with dragon shapes), especially those where their deity is portrayed. Also observed on its walls are the presence of reliefs, in which a net can be distinguished, which would show a certain cult of fishing in the place.
History of the Huaca Garagay
In 1959, following a report of invasions at the site, a group of archaeologists discovered a pre-Hispanic temple, which had been buried by mat houses, improvised tracks and battered buildings. Five years later, archaeological work began, which was paralyzed due to lack of budget. But it was not until a year ago when a brave group of researchers, inspired by Julio C. Tello, the father of Peruvian archaeology, dared to continue the field work.
Hector Walde points out that Gagaray would have been abandoned, since its inhabitants migrated to different places in search of fortified mountains, better soils and good climate. After that interval, they returned to settle again in the lower valleys of Lima. This is how places like Pachacámac and Maranga were created, which remained in force until the arrival of the Spanish in the 16th century. As a result of this, archaeologists divide Huacas into two types: old temples and new temples. Garagay belongs to the first.
A unique place
The enclosure walls of Garagay are richly decorated with high-relief and polychrome friezes of anthropomorphic figures alluding to felines, very similar to those found in Chavín de Huantar. This Huaca is the only one on the Peruvian coast that has these characteristics.
There are few people from Lima and Peru who know the Huaca Garagay. However, UNESCO is evaluating whether this archaeological center can become a World Heritage Site, since it meets all the conditions to deserve this title.
Sacred places
The word Huaca comes from the Quechua word, which refers to a sacred place. The lagoons, hills, caves and religious buildings were considered places where the deities of ancient Peru were worshiped. Currently, the term Huaca is used to refer to architectural places that are part of the pre-Hispanic heritage such as cemeteries, fortresses and other physical constructions. In the same way, this word is applied to different types of pre-Columbian ceramics.
In the department of Lima there are more than 192 Huacas, but 13 are the most important due to their historical value and location. Among them are Huaca Pucllana, Garagay, Mateo Salado and Pachacámac. The conservation and administration of these archaeological centers is carried out in a joint effort by the Ministry of Culture, district municipalities and international organizations, whose objective is to enhance architectural vestiges.
But every day, new discoveries are added to that number. The sand, mud and lush forests hide thousands of years of history, which are worth unearthing. That is why a series of archaeologists work tirelessly excavating in the bowels of the earth.
How to get to Huaca Garagay?
So that the visitor can reach this Huaca, they can take the Mayta Cápac Ecological Center, two blocks from the place, as a reference point. Entry to the huaca is semi-restricted, since to access it it is necessary to have permission from the National Institute of Culture.
Heritage in danger
Like other archaeological centers, the Huaca Garagay has suffered a series of damages, some caused by the inclemency of nature such as: sudden changes in climate, soil erosion, earthquakes and humidity. But the most severe were caused by the hand of man. The disorganized growth of Lima has meant that the twenty-two areas that comprise the monument, declared intangible, are not respected. Every day, the area is invaded by precarious houses. On the other hand, although security has been redoubled, at night the place serves as a hiding place for vagrants and criminals.
Preserving our heritage is everyone's task, because it helps shape our identity, knowing who, where we come from and where we are going.
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